Hi guys!
Towards the end of last year, I experienced some difficulties after cleaning my EGR and also throttle body. I finally got things running, but since we've gotten ourselves another car this one has actually just been standing on our parking lot since then. Now, the last weeks I've been trying to get it to run, but it's really bad. I've had it reach operating temperature several times, idling for half an hour, but it just doesn't want to play well. Of course, it could be a vacuum clean, but I have this weird gut feeling that this isn't a vacuum leak, but something different. I have replaced the MAP sensor but this hasn't made any difference. The TB is thoroughly cleaned, so this couldn't cause it. I'm not completely sure about the EGR, I may have damaged it since I more or less drowned it in the sink indoors when I cleaned it. However, it clearly responds to 12v in at-home testing.
However, what has now made me curious is the so called "Hall sensor" that sits on top of the engine. It doesn't seem to matter if I have this plugged or unplugged, the engine roughness is exactly the same. I don't get any CEL or any other instrument indication, except when I pull the Hall plug it tells me that the wire is out. I've also swapped all spark plugs and checked all spark coils, no trouble there. So, right now I'm leaning towards the Hall sensor theory.
What do you guys say? Anyone with a BBY engine who could verify or deny the fact that the engine should behave the same way with it plugged or unplugged? I'm tempted to look for some cheap replacement part over eBay, but I thought I'd ask around here first. Oh, is there something else that I may have overlooked here? Any of the two Lambda sensors? Some say these won't show symptoms until the engine has reached operating temperature though, and my situation is just about the same even if I start the engine cold, so therefor I've more or less ruled them out, plus one of them was replaced 2011.
Finally, as a response to kind @Wino from that other (didn't want to resurrect it) thread.
Glad you fixed it in the end. ![:)]()
In my opinion, it's always good to explore new areas of your car that you haven't got involved with before, life is one long school-day.
What's the Toyota like to drive; I've never driven one?
In the beginning it got to be somewhat a nightmare. After two days I felt something was wrong; at high gears there was a rattling noise coming from somewhere. I drove to Toyota and the tech who tested the car around the block quickly pinpointed the issue; gearbox bearings was singing on it's last chorus. I was quoted what's equal to roughly £ 1100 to get the bearings replaced, if I ran much longer things could crash and then the entire box would need replacement, which would be even more expensive. I quickly returned to the car dealer, who at first acted like I was talking nonsense, Toyota only wanted money, and so on, and so on. However, I finally got them around, and they replaced the entire gearbox for a used one that had even less miles on it. So, ever since that I'm actually quite happy with the Toyota, except for some minor flaws. If I get the Fabia running again, I'm still not sure which car to keep and which to sell. Even if I like the Toyota, I got this nasty feeling about the dealership since I'm 98% convinced that they knew about the gearbox situation the entire time, and was trying to blow me.
Now, I hope anyone around could point me in the right direction here. MOT is soon due (31 of May) and I'm not sure how they (Sweden) will consider this rattling engine. Oh yeah, I know the engine is nasty on the top, but when the air filter housing is of the filler cap is more or less loose from one direction, which I think is simply BBY design. I'll clean it up later.
